Charlevoix-Tobermory-Midland-Georgian Bay-Killarney-North Channel-Straits of Mackinac-Charlevoix
(810 miles)
Yes, on Leg #9, we went backwards! We had enjoyed the Georgian Bay/North Channel so much in 2014 that we decided to return before heading south. However, due to an unanticipated change of plans (discussed below), our journey down the rivers has been postponed until next season (2016).
We arrived back at Irish Boatshop in early June, 2015 to find TOSCA II all polished up and ready to go. The folks at Irish had taken great care of her over what had been a very severe winter in these parts and she looked great. Here Alex and Ernie get her ready to head out for Spring sea trials to check all systems before we cast off to head north, back into Canada. Our plan was to head straight for Midland ON, where we were booked to have a new Sunbrella top installed.
We left Charlevoix on June 8 and headed up Lake Michigan, through the Straits of Mackinac into Lake Huron, and on to Cheboygan MI. Next day Presque Isle MI, where we stayed a day in port due to rain. Then, it was a long haul of about 90 miles across Lake Huron, on a beautiful day in calm seas, to make our landfall in Canada at Tobermory ON, on the Bruce Peninsula.
Tobermory is a very picturesque tourist town that we really enjoyed. Another day of rain, however, so we took the opportunity to do laundry and take on more provisions.
From Tobermory, it was on to Lions Head, through very heavy fog. We began our boating years together off Nova Scotia, so fog doesn't scare us, but we sure were glad we had the radar (which proved to be very accurate). We found out later that we had managed to weave our way through a fleet of racing sailboats. Another rainy day, so we stayed put for a second night.
Surprisingly, given the heavy, damp fog, we were also swarmed along the way by the nastiest flies you've ever seen. The mystery was that they were at their worst out of sight of land. At least they didn't bite, but they sure were horrible!
As we approached our next port of Meaford, the fog socked in again - we measured the visibility using our radar at less than 100 meters - and we had to feel our way in through the breakwater.
Made for an eerie sight along the docks. Nice dinner at The Leeky Canoe.
From Meaford, it was on to Wye Heritage Marina at Midland, where we had spent a few days in 2014. We flew back to Calgary for a week, while a new top was installed on TOSCA. Around this time, Rowland was appointed to undertake a special assignment for the federal Minister of Aboriginal Affairs and Northern Development, so we set up an onboard "office", complete with WiFi, scanner/printer/fax. As a result of Rowland's assignment (which we expected to go on for the next several months), we also decided to change our plans for the season and to put the boat back into storage in Charlevoix for another winter.
So we headed back into the Georgian Bay, with our first stop at Honey Harbour. A bit intimidating on first approach, but a beautiful marina with a nice restaurant.
From there, it was on to Henry's on Frying Pan Island, for a return visit.
TOSCA at her familiar berth at Henry's, with her new Sunbrella top, which looks great.
We continued from Frying Pan Island, with return visits to Killbear and Byng Inlet...
...feeling a little more confident this time about the challenging navigation, but still having to keep our wits about us.
Marveling at the variety...
...and whimsy of the cottages along the way.
It appears this fisherman has been waiting a long time for a bite!
Onward past the Pointe au Baril Light...
...to the incredible hideaway anchorage in Fox Bay, which had been recommended to us by a fellow boater at Killbear Marina. A navigation challenge, as the charts don't go that far, but we had been assured it was doable, so we inched our way in. Amazing, and we were the only boat for miles around.
"Idyllic" doesn't begin to describe it, so we had to launch the dinghy and get some photos.
TOSCA looked amazing in this setting, especially with her new top.
So beautiful, I just "messed about" for a while in my little boat (a la Water Rat in The Wind in the Willows).
Then it was on to the Bustards, where we had anchored last season. This time, however, we were one of only two boats, whereas last year there had been more than half a dozen.
Relaxed, eh?
Next stop Killarney. We thoroughly enjoyed another evening with Andy Lowe, in the Carousel Lounge at the Killarney Mountain Lodge. Andy is very talented and can offer a good rendition of pretty well anything that's requested of him. He's particularly reminiscent of our favorite Stan Rogers. Another great evening to finish up the Georgian Bay.
Killarney is the dividing line between the Georgian Bay and the North Channel. It's very pretty and as you motor on, you really do have feeling that you're leaving one part of the adventure for the next...
...which is Little Current. It's well known among boaters, however, that whoever came up with the name was being quite mischievous - the current actually can be quite strong, although we managed without trouble on our two visits. Little Current is located on Manitoulin Island and this is the swing bridge to the mainland.
After Little Current, we spent a night at anchor in Logan Bay on Clapperton Island, then did a day tour through the Benjamins. We tried towing the dinghy, which worked quite well (although we later discovered it was actually carrying a lot of extra water as one of the bungs had not been closed!).
From the Benjamins, we headed for Gore Bay, on Manitoulin Island, which was a beautiful spot. It's the headquarters for the bareboat charter fleet for the North Channel/Georgian Bay. Great meal at Buoys, especially the gazpacho. Next stop, Meldrum Bay, where we had another nice meal at an old inn, and Alex went to an evening church service for mariners. Last stop in Canada.
Next day, we crossed into the U.S. and were able to clear Customs by phone through Drummond Island. However, it was all downhill from there for the rest of the day. As we were entering the harbor at Detour, we were misled by these markers, which initially look straightforward enough. WRONG! Turns out you have to go BETWEEN the two red markers to get to our marina. Anyway, we ended up aground. - had to launch the dinghy and kedge off. Very embarrassing, even though everyone on the dock seemed to agree that the markers are wrong. The marina guy said he usually warns everyone when they call ahead, but somehow no one remembered to mention it to us! As if that wasn't enough, when we finally got securely tied up at the dock, Rowland took one step too many and fell in. No damage or injury, but a lot of wounded pride. Not one of our better days on the water!
After a night at St. Ignace, we passed under the magnificent Straits of Mackinac bridge, proudly flying our Canadian flag...
...accompanied by a couple of boats that had just competed in the famous Mackinac race from Chicago. A beautiful last day for the season, as we headed for Charlevoix and Irish Boat Shop.
Back in Charlevoix, TOSCA looked great!
Not quite done yet, however, as we had to move her next day to the service dock, ready for haulout. It was really tight, with only a couple of feet to spare. Alex did an amazing job.
Proud, or what?
A farewell photo in our TOSCA hats.
Haulout, on July 16 ...
...and into bed for the winter! We sure covered a lot of distance (approximately 810 miles) in just a few short weeks.
With Leg 9 behind us, we now have approximately 3865 miles under the keel since we set out on the Great Loop from Gasparilla Island FL in September 2012. This is the third winter that TOSCA will have been "on the hard" for the winter. Next summer, it's down the rivers to the Gulf of Mexico.
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