Chesapeake (Atlantic Yacht Basin) VA-Norfolk-Yorktown-Deltaville-Crisfield MD-Potomac (Corinthian Yacht Club)-Solomons-Oxford-Annapolis-Baltimore-Delaware City DE-Cape May NJ-Great Kills NY-Hoboken NJ-Croton-on-Hudson (Half Moon Bay Marina) NY (583 miles)
We returned to Atlantic Yacht Basin on July 9, to find TOSCA pretty much ready to head out again. Her hull had been waxed and polished and she looked like a new boat. We took a couple of days to provision and get used to life back aboard. Then we headed back up the ICW through the Great Bridge Bascule Bridge and Lock for Norfolk.
Along the way, we again encountered the barge and industrial activity that is everywhere throughout this section of the ICW. Alex has now conceded that, when faced with barge traffic in close quarters, the "rule of tonnage" applies, viz., regardless of who might have the right of way under the Rules of Navigation, you get out of the barge's way!
After a night at Waterside Marina in Norfolk (where we had attended the AGLCA Spring Rendezvous in May - see Blog Leg 4), we set off to "do the Chesapeake." On the way out of Norfolk, we were surrounded by reminders that the area is the home port for the U.S. Atlantic Fleet. As we passed one of the naval dockyards, we were hailed by a police boat and told to slow down and move to the other side of the channel, further away from the docks. Thereafter, we just tried not to attract any attention, but we couldn't resist taking this shot of an impressive looking warship returning to port. We later learned that this was the USS New York, an amphibious transport dock that is notable for using steel that was salvaged from the World Trade Center after it was destroyed in the 9/11 terrorist attack.
Periodically, we would hear naval ships on the VHF radio announcing that they were engaging in this or that maneuver and that all vessels should stand clear. "Measures to enforce clearance zones may include the use of lethal force."
Periodically, we would hear naval ships on the VHF radio announcing that they were engaging in this or that maneuver and that all vessels should stand clear. "Measures to enforce clearance zones may include the use of lethal force."
Our first stop was Yorktown, where we stayed two nights while we explored the historic triangle of Yorktown itself (the site of one of the final battles of the American War of Independence, or, as preferred by Americans these days, the "Revolutionary War", and also the site of an important battle in the Civil War or, as it is called by many southerners, the "war of northern aggression"), Jamestown (the first English colonial settlement, founded by John Smith in 1607) and Colonial Williamsburg (for many years the capital of the colony of Virginia).
Here, Alex catches up on the email while waiting for the tour bus to take us to Colonial Williamsburg and Jamestown.
Here, Alex catches up on the email while waiting for the tour bus to take us to Colonial Williamsburg and Jamestown.
Neither of us had fully appreciated how far back English settlement of the New World went. 1607 - wow! That's before Tasman had sighted Van Diemen's Land and before Cook had sailed into the Pacific. Nor had we really understood just how British the original 13 colonies were. The point is made by this early version of the Union Jack that is flown at the remains of the Jamestown Settlement.
(The Jamestown Settlement had been preceded by about 50 years by a settlement established by Sir Walter Raleigh on Roanoke Island in North Carolina, but that settlement disappeared and is known as "the Lost Colony".)
(The Jamestown Settlement had been preceded by about 50 years by a settlement established by Sir Walter Raleigh on Roanoke Island in North Carolina, but that settlement disappeared and is known as "the Lost Colony".)
Alex didn't let the fact that she was wearing a cast for her ankle injury slow her down!
Then it was on to Colonial Williamsburg, one of our favorite places from previous visits. It really is a step back in time.
Back at Yorktown, however, we were brought back into the 21st Century by the continuing high visibility of naval might, here on the York River. This vessel is heading downstream from the Yorktown Naval Weapons Station, which holds the munitions (likely including nuclear weapons) for the Atlantic Fleet.
From Yorktown, we moved up the western side of the Chesapeake Bay to Regatta Point. Along the way, we saw the first of many of the iconic lighthouses on the Bay. This is the Wolf Trap light.
We stayed at Dozier's Regatta Point Yachting Center, one of the prettier and quieter marinas we have visited. Alex was able to enjoy a swim in the marina pool.
On our way into Regatta Point, the numerous Ospreys continued to watch us. They have made a remarkable comeback over the last couple of decades. Here, Mumma and her two fledglings check us out.
Next day, we crossed the Chesapeake Bay to the eastern shore, via Tangier Island.
We were struck by the odd placement of this religious sign.
And the incongruity of this Israeli flag appearing in such an isolated place.
Our destination on the eastern shore, and our first stop in Maryland, was Crisfield, a major center for the Chesapeake blue crab fishery. We were just a couple of days ahead of Crisfield's blue crab festival, which apparently attracts several thousand visitors, including the state governor.
From Crisfield, we headed back across the Bay, via Smith Island. Like Tangier, it looked like it might have seen more prosperous times in the past.
The channel through Smith was pretty challenging. We were down to our minimum depth a couple of times, but we made it safely.
Unfortunately, take-out crab cakes weren't available.
Along the way, the Point-no-Point lighthouse.
Our destination was the Corinthian Yacht Club on the Potomac, a beautiful secluded spot...
...where we joined a gathering of Loopers who are spending the summer on the Chesapeake. This is the "groupie" part of Looping that Alex loves!
Then it was on to Solomons, which we had visited on our way to and from The Bahamas 35 years ago. There were many more boats and buildings, but otherwise it wasn't really all that different from what we remembered.
Next, it was back across the Bay to the eastern shore again, this time to Oxford MD.
One more crossing of the Bay en route to Annapolis, this time through Tilghman Island...
...which was very picturesque.
And then Annapolis, another of our favorite destinations from previous visits.
Our son Stewart flew in to join us for a few days and we drove into Washington, which he had not visited before.
We had a great day on the Mall, visiting the Air and Space Museum at the Smithsonian, the Lincoln Memorial, etc.
We packed a lot in.
Stew used his artist's eye to capture his Dad in the colonnade of the Lincoln Memorial.
But perhaps the highlight was lunch at Ben's Chili Bowl, home of the famous chili dog. It was amazing. The walls are adorned with photos of all kinds of famous people eating there, including President Obama.
Back in Annapolis, we enjoyed a great Italian meal at Piccola Roma,
before heading out of Annapolis next morning...
...for Baltimore, where Stew left us to fly back to Calgary.
We stayed in Baltimore nearly a week, during which we made two side trips by car, the first to Philadelphia, which is a beautiful city that neither of us had visited before. Quite took us by surprise, with its wonderful architecture and its history as the birthplace of the nation.
Philly was also one of the culinary highlights of the trip so far, at AMADA, a tapas restaurant literally next door to our historic hotel.
Unpretentious, relaxed atmosphere, with outstanding food. A great evening.
Then we drove into DC again to stay overnight with our friends Jeff Petrash and Sandy Waldstein and to visit David Manning who is Alberta's representative at the Canadian Embassy. The Embassy is a beautiful building in a spectacular setting right on Philadelphia Avenue - it is reputed to be the envy of the rest of the Washington diplomatic corps. This photo was taken by David on the roof of the Embassy.
Jeff guided us around parts of DC that many people miss and that were new to us, in spite of our many previous visits - Embassy Row, the magnificent Washington cathedral and out to his home in Bethesda. It's a wonderful city.
Jeff guided us around parts of DC that many people miss and that were new to us, in spite of our many previous visits - Embassy Row, the magnificent Washington cathedral and out to his home in Bethesda. It's a wonderful city.
Back to Baltimore and preparations to move on.
We couldn't leave, however, without a farewell drink to the sounds of the Baltimore Steel Drum Band...
...and a last supper at the tiki bar!
We turned north, up the last stretch of the Chesapeake Bay headed for the Chesapeake and Delaware Canal. We were a bit intimidated when we realized we might be sharing the C&D Canal with the likes of this freighter which was just exiting the Canal as we approached!
The upper reaches of the Chesapeake are really beautiful and our one regret of Leg 5 is that we didn't have the time to anchor for a night before leaving this beautiful Bay...
...and transiting just 12 miles through the C&D Canal...
...into the Delaware River!
Before facing the run down the River, however, we spent a quiet night at Delaware City Marina, another of those unexpected gems we've encountered along the way.
The Delaware can be nasty if wind and current are opposed, so we left early on an ebbing tide with a fair wind and made the run to Cape May very comfortably in just a few hours. Along the way, we passed the Ship John Shoal light.
The 120-mile run up the New Jersey coast from Cape May to Sandy Hook (New York harbor) is in the open Atlantic and you have to pick your weather. The ideal is a light southwest wind (offshore and from behind). The forecast was good, so we steamed out of the Cape May inlet at dawn. It was a magnificent morning.
And it stayed that way till we reached Sandy Hook 10 hours later.
Along the way, we passed by Atlantic City...
..and left it in our wake.
After sighting one last shrimper, we rounded Sandy Hook and spent the night at Great Kills Harbor on Staten Island.
Next morning, the Manhattan skyline began to appear slowly as we entered New York harbor.
It was an amazing sight to see the skyline of the Big Apple emerge from the blue and gray mist and rain.
On past the Statue of Liberty.
What an experience!
At this point, we left the Verazzano Narrows Bridge and the Atlantic behind us and went "inland", heading for the Great Lakes up the Hudson River.
At this point, we left the Verazzano Narrows Bridge and the Atlantic behind us and went "inland", heading for the Great Lakes up the Hudson River.
We stayed one night at the Lincoln Harbor Yacht Club in Hoboken NJ, across the Hudson River from mid-town Manhattan - one of the world's most spectacular sights at night.
And in daylight for that matter. TOSCA rests in the shadow of the Empire State building...
...and the Freedom Tower, on the site of the World Trade Center.
Time to move on, however, and Manhattan slowly faded into the distance...
...as we approached the George Washington Bridge.
Along the way, there were some quite dramatic signs of the devastation caused throughout this area and along the New Jersey coast by tropical storm Sandy last year.
The underway routine resumes.
We tried to stop for lunch at the upscale X2O, which we had seen featured on an Anthony Bourdain show, with Bill Murray. It's located on top of this pier, which is owned by the City of Yonkers and offers free dockage. Alex did a brilliant job handling the current and getting us alongside the dock, but the rock and roll from the passing river traffic made it too risky to stay and we had to move on without lunch. Too bad.
The end of Leg 5 - Half Moon Bay Marina, at Croton-on-Hudson, where TOSCA will rest for a few weeks before we make the final run up to Brewerton NY for winter storage.
We found another fabulous restaurant here, TAGINE.
We found another fabulous restaurant here, TAGINE.
Our Great Loop Adventure continues! Since leaving Gasparilla Island on September 19, 2012 approximately 1813 miles have passed under the keel, approaching one-third of what we expect to cover till TOSCA II crosses her wake.
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